Awakening to the sight of the beautiful Place Capitole was delightful. Toulouse is known as the "Ville Rose" because of the many buildings of pink terracotta bricks. It is on the Garonne River that flows into the Atlantic. We learned that Toulouse is a sister city to Atlanta, and after an explosion in September 2001 (shortly after our 9/11 tragedy) that killed many factory workers, Atlanta presented Toulouse with a statue of a Phoenix, which is the symbol of Atlanta (rising from the ashes). It was created by an Atlanta sculptor.
Our light breakfast in the lounge was included in our room rate. The bread was not the wonderful bread we remember from our days in France.
Ron wanted to buy some Scotch, and we set out walking down a side street, but I quickly decided that I couldn't do it. So, I sat in the hotel lobby to wait. He said he walked 10-12 blocks and saw many young homeless, all with their dogs. We read that unemployment among young people in France is 28%.
I had read about the restaurant next door to the hotel, Le Biben (dating from 1861), and that it was incredibly beautiful. Ron went in to make a reservation for lunch, but they said they were full inside, only outside tables available. Since the main attraction for us was the décor, sitting outside wasn't an option. Ron wanted to walk down another side street, still in search of a "spirits" shop, so I sat at one of the outdoor tables to wait. I asked the maître 'd about dinner reservations INSIDE, and again he said they were full. As I was sitting, two young Asian guys with back packs came along and sat near me. Shortly, the waiter spoke with them, and they were taken INSIDE. I was beginning to wonder what's going on.
When Ron came back with shopping bag in hand (success with Scotch) he sat and ordered a beer. We observed that the maître 'd was also turning away French people - so it wasn't just an anti-American thing (which we have NEVER encountered in France except one time in Paris).. Ron took the bag back to the hotel so he wouldn't have to carry it around, and I asked him to inquire at the desk if they could try to make us a reservation at Le Biben. Their reply, "Le Biben does not take reservations." Ron told her they said they were full inside for both lunch and dinner, and how could they know that if they don't take reservations. She had no explanation.
We walked many blocks. Noticed that all of the department stores were closed, and quite a few small shops as well. We later found out that this was a national holiday, Whit Monday. Perhaps that was why the restaurant was full - maybe holiday functions?
Ron had noticed numerous ethnic restaurants on his earlier walks, and we set off to find one. We walked on many small streets and stopped to rest in several parks.
We ended up at a tiny Indian place, Le Rohtang Pass, in a small side street. The manager waited on us, and was very attentive and spoke English. He served us a complimentary beverage to begin. It was made with Vodka, orange, and some type of syrup. Quite tasty, and not sweet.
We ordered like we hadn't eaten in days. The cheese and garlic naan was accompanied by three sauces, which is unusual and a nice touch. They were mint, mango pickle, and tamarind. Ron said the mango pickle was extremely HOT - turned his ears red - but he liked it. I stuck with the mint!
Next we had shami kebab (minced lamb) with raita (yogurt/cucumber mixture).
My main course was chicken korma with basmati rice, and Ron had chicken biryani which was served with another incredibly spicy (hot) sauce.
We also shared a bottle of Muscadet, very reasonably priced. As we were leaving, the manager asked if we had enjoyed everything, and then asked if we would please given them a tripadvisor review, as they have only been in business two months, and need to build their business.
Walked back to Place Capitole, and caught the little tourist train which was wonderful. Took us all around (about 40-minutes) where I would have loved to be able to walk.
There were so many interesting sights that I can't write about them all. I will mention the Basilica St. Sernin, the largest remaining Romanesque building in Europe. It was built between 1080-1120 AD as part of an Abbey. It grew on the site where pilgrims came to visit the "relics" the first Bishop of Toulouse, who was killed in 250 AD for refusing to worship pagan gods. He was pulled by a bull through the streets until dead.
As the "train" was nearing the square I noticed a Nicolas store, wine and spirits, which we had frequented when we lived in France. Ron suggested I sit in a café at the Arcades while he walked back. The ceilings in the Arcades are painted with 29 works by the late Italian painter, Raymond Moreti, illustrating the history of the city.
We returned to our hotel for the evening. We went up the Executive Lounge, and they had nice little cheese and ham finger sandwiches. A perfect light snack after our wonderful Indian lunch.
We think Toulouse is a place well worth visiting again - especially if my hip and knee replacements render me more mobile!
Our light breakfast in the lounge was included in our room rate. The bread was not the wonderful bread we remember from our days in France.
Ron wanted to buy some Scotch, and we set out walking down a side street, but I quickly decided that I couldn't do it. So, I sat in the hotel lobby to wait. He said he walked 10-12 blocks and saw many young homeless, all with their dogs. We read that unemployment among young people in France is 28%.
I had read about the restaurant next door to the hotel, Le Biben (dating from 1861), and that it was incredibly beautiful. Ron went in to make a reservation for lunch, but they said they were full inside, only outside tables available. Since the main attraction for us was the décor, sitting outside wasn't an option. Ron wanted to walk down another side street, still in search of a "spirits" shop, so I sat at one of the outdoor tables to wait. I asked the maître 'd about dinner reservations INSIDE, and again he said they were full. As I was sitting, two young Asian guys with back packs came along and sat near me. Shortly, the waiter spoke with them, and they were taken INSIDE. I was beginning to wonder what's going on.
When Ron came back with shopping bag in hand (success with Scotch) he sat and ordered a beer. We observed that the maître 'd was also turning away French people - so it wasn't just an anti-American thing (which we have NEVER encountered in France except one time in Paris).. Ron took the bag back to the hotel so he wouldn't have to carry it around, and I asked him to inquire at the desk if they could try to make us a reservation at Le Biben. Their reply, "Le Biben does not take reservations." Ron told her they said they were full inside for both lunch and dinner, and how could they know that if they don't take reservations. She had no explanation.
We walked many blocks. Noticed that all of the department stores were closed, and quite a few small shops as well. We later found out that this was a national holiday, Whit Monday. Perhaps that was why the restaurant was full - maybe holiday functions?
Ron had noticed numerous ethnic restaurants on his earlier walks, and we set off to find one. We walked on many small streets and stopped to rest in several parks.
 |
| Homeless person sleeping on sidewalk - sad! |
We ended up at a tiny Indian place, Le Rohtang Pass, in a small side street. The manager waited on us, and was very attentive and spoke English. He served us a complimentary beverage to begin. It was made with Vodka, orange, and some type of syrup. Quite tasty, and not sweet.
 |
| Vodka/orange drink "on the house" |
We ordered like we hadn't eaten in days. The cheese and garlic naan was accompanied by three sauces, which is unusual and a nice touch. They were mint, mango pickle, and tamarind. Ron said the mango pickle was extremely HOT - turned his ears red - but he liked it. I stuck with the mint!
 |
| Sauces for Naan |
 |
| Cheese & garlic naan |
Next we had shami kebab (minced lamb) with raita (yogurt/cucumber mixture).
 |
| Shami kebab |
My main course was chicken korma with basmati rice, and Ron had chicken biryani which was served with another incredibly spicy (hot) sauce.
 |
| Korma, rice, biryani in back |
We also shared a bottle of Muscadet, very reasonably priced. As we were leaving, the manager asked if we had enjoyed everything, and then asked if we would please given them a tripadvisor review, as they have only been in business two months, and need to build their business.
Walked back to Place Capitole, and caught the little tourist train which was wonderful. Took us all around (about 40-minutes) where I would have loved to be able to walk.
There were so many interesting sights that I can't write about them all. I will mention the Basilica St. Sernin, the largest remaining Romanesque building in Europe. It was built between 1080-1120 AD as part of an Abbey. It grew on the site where pilgrims came to visit the "relics" the first Bishop of Toulouse, who was killed in 250 AD for refusing to worship pagan gods. He was pulled by a bull through the streets until dead.
 |
| Basilica St. Sernin (picture does not do it justice) |
As the "train" was nearing the square I noticed a Nicolas store, wine and spirits, which we had frequented when we lived in France. Ron suggested I sit in a café at the Arcades while he walked back. The ceilings in the Arcades are painted with 29 works by the late Italian painter, Raymond Moreti, illustrating the history of the city.
 |
Ron walking in Arcades beneath ceiling frescoes
|
We think Toulouse is a place well worth visiting again - especially if my hip and knee replacements render me more mobile!
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