We had paid an extra 13 EU for breakfast and went over to the "breakfast room" at 8 AM. It was the owners' combined living room/dining/office. There were shoes piled at the door, cosmetics and purses tossed about. Not the most salubrious setting, and the breakfast was very sparse - apples, yogurt, bread, jam and butter. None of the usual meat and cheese. But, then again, we should not expect more than a clean and comfortable room and pleasant hosts at the price point.
We departed before 9 AM. We made our way unto a decent road much quicker than it had taken us to get to that destination, which we thought was very desolate.
We had three issues with credit cards this day. The first misadventure of the day was that when we came to the toll plaza, Ron reached up to the vizor to retrieve his credit card, and it fell onto the floor of the car, and neither of us could spot it anywhere. He pulled over to the far right, hoping all big trucks would manage to pass us, and looked for it. But no success. It was like the time years ago when I had a toll ticket on the French roads that vanished into thin air. He got another card from his wallet, and we proceeded through the toll plaza. These are enormous places with dozens of lanes, and only some in which you can use credit cards. There was a parking area after the toll, and he pulled over, and got out and searched for the card. Pulled the seat all the way back - nothing. Pulled the seat all the way forward and looked behind - nothing. Finally, he located the card under the brake pedal. Whew!
Next, we went to a big service plaza where all of the gas pumps were "automatique" (meaning they accept credit cards). Unfortunately, they wouldn't accept ANY of ours. Ron tried about 8 of them! It was very confusing where to go to pump gas if you did not want to use a card or wished to pay inside. So, we drove on another 10 miles (on fumes) to another service plaza. This was pay inside and there was no problem using the card.
Now we were fueled up and ready to go. Before the next toll plaza, Ron noticed his credit card that we were using for tolls (and storing behind the vizor) was BENT from the heat. This is the main card we have been using in Europe, the one with no foreign service fees, and the one to obtain cash from ATM! Thank heavens we have another one. Anyone who read earlier blog will know that our bank debit card was cancelled because of "suspicious activity" - so our options are dwindling.
At the next toll plaza, he attempted to use the bent card - to no avail. So, held up traffic while looking through wallet for another card. We are not talking insignificant tolls here - on a day of 3-5 hour driving you will spend up to $100 in tolls. The Austrian and Swiss system seems preferable where you buy a "vignette" and have no tolls.
Drove through the vineyards of Languedoc and into the Provence area, past Avignon, and finally arrived at Montpellier. Almost all French restaurants were closed on Monday, but we had found a well-reviewed Chinese restaurant, and planned to go there. But, then I remembered an article I had with me about a winery, and looked it up. For a change, there was a signal so I could reach Google, and found Restaurant Floria at the Chateau Flaugegues, a family winery in an old manor house with lovely gardens.
Another drama ensued. The GPS satellite did not realize there is a newly opened long-distance bypass, and when it directed us to continue straight on, that is where we ended up. I had pointed out the signs toward Montpellier, but Ron said maybe the winery was in the hills east of the city, which seemed logical. Unfortunately, once we passed that exit, the GPS had no idea where we were, and indicated we were basically traveling through fields. I programmed the destination into my phone NAV, which luckily worked, but only momentarily. At a glance it seemed it indicated we had to travel about 27 KM (17 miles) to the next exit. We had planned to be at the restauant early, and have time to browse in the winery. Now, it seemed, we would be LATE. Then the phone went into "recalculating route" mode. Anyway, when we exited the autoroute and paid a 24 Euro toll, I asked Ron if we shoud just forget the lunch stop and go on. He said it would only take us 30-minutes to go back, so we did. But, it raised our blood pressure!
l
More tolls going back. The winery/chateau was right in the city, in a rather industrial area. There was a new, modern apartment block behind it, and a cute-looking 3-star hotel, La Grange. Later we learned that the apartments were senior living, and looked very nice.
The winery/restaurant experience wasn't worth the extra hour of travel and tolls. It was pleasant, but didn't live up to expectations raised by the article and reviews. It was too hot to sit outside on the gravel terrace, so sat inside (not air-conditioned, but cooler because of ancient thick walls). Forgot to mention it got up to almost 100-degrees this day. No wonder the credit card melted.
I had a 21-EU 2-course meal. My appetizer was aubergine (eggplant) with "raw" ham, walnuts, and watercress. My main was a crusted fish on a bed of peas and diced vegetables. Don't know what kind of fish, but it had a "meaty" consistency something like swordfish. I prefer flaky like haddock, cod, hake. Ron didn't choose a set menu, and instead got a salad, followed by entecote with pomme frittes.
We had a cute little visitor, who was making the rounds. He settled in with us after Ron gave him a tasty morsel of steak.
After lunch we briefly visited the winery, but didn't see any white wines of interest.
We then re-traced our drive along the new bypass (more tolls). We had planned to go to a town a little south of Lyon, but Ron was tired of driving, and we decided to stop in Valence instead.
The internet was working on the phone (for a change) and I looked at hotels. We had stayed here years ago at a hotel with a Michelin-starred restaurant. This was NOT what we wanted this trip - just something convenient, clean, reasonable and comfortable. We have had good luck with The European Best Westerrns, and read reviews for the BW Clos-Syrah, called and reserved a room, which they said was the very last one available.
It was very convenient, just off the autoroute. We were leery when arriving, as the exterior looked atrocious. But, the interior has been renovated, and was very modern and attractive. Our room was on the ground floor. It had been renovated, but there was still scaffolding outside on our terrace where renovations were continuing. Ron drove to a nearby Intermarche to get a bag of ice, some wine, etc. While he was gone, I put on my slippers and soon disovered that the carpets had just been cleaned and were still WET. Both my slippers and socks were soaked.
When Ron got back, he took my slippers and socks to the desk and complained, mentioning that I had almost slipped on the bathroom tile because my feet were wet and I didn't realize it (true). The manager came and apologized, and said we should come to the terrace for a complimentary champagne, and he would also give us complimentary breakfast.
We went to the terrace for dinner, preceded by the champagne. A very lovely setting, at the pool with large trees in the background, and beautiful landscaping, including oleanders and bougainvillea, in the immediate area. Ron commented that at this moment the hotel "has a few rough edges" but when the renovations are complete, it will be a "little Paradise".
The menu was quite expensive and limited. It was a very nice restaurant, not what you would ever find in a US Best Western. There were some wines on the menu for 500 EU! We didn't want a big meal, and asked if they could just give us a charcuterie platter and cheese, which they kindly did. The meal began with a complimentary tapenade, which Ron said was better than the one served at the Michelin-starred restaurant we experienced the last time we were in Valence.
Ron asked the manager if they could place a table and two chairs on our terrace. They were not there because renovations were still ungoing, but he quickly agreed, and within minutes we had table and chairs to enjoy the evening outdoors.
Ron wanted this beautiful, red meat slicer. I said that we don't have room in our luggage, and probably don't have room in our new house.
I love this cute red bar!
We went to our room, which was small, but totally refurbished, and it was so pleasant to have the terrace by the pool, especially since the temperatures had cooled off nicely. All of the staff we dealt with were friendly and helpful.
 |
| Breakfast at Chateau Basque in Capvern-Les-Bains |
We had three issues with credit cards this day. The first misadventure of the day was that when we came to the toll plaza, Ron reached up to the vizor to retrieve his credit card, and it fell onto the floor of the car, and neither of us could spot it anywhere. He pulled over to the far right, hoping all big trucks would manage to pass us, and looked for it. But no success. It was like the time years ago when I had a toll ticket on the French roads that vanished into thin air. He got another card from his wallet, and we proceeded through the toll plaza. These are enormous places with dozens of lanes, and only some in which you can use credit cards. There was a parking area after the toll, and he pulled over, and got out and searched for the card. Pulled the seat all the way back - nothing. Pulled the seat all the way forward and looked behind - nothing. Finally, he located the card under the brake pedal. Whew!
Next, we went to a big service plaza where all of the gas pumps were "automatique" (meaning they accept credit cards). Unfortunately, they wouldn't accept ANY of ours. Ron tried about 8 of them! It was very confusing where to go to pump gas if you did not want to use a card or wished to pay inside. So, we drove on another 10 miles (on fumes) to another service plaza. This was pay inside and there was no problem using the card.
Now we were fueled up and ready to go. Before the next toll plaza, Ron noticed his credit card that we were using for tolls (and storing behind the vizor) was BENT from the heat. This is the main card we have been using in Europe, the one with no foreign service fees, and the one to obtain cash from ATM! Thank heavens we have another one. Anyone who read earlier blog will know that our bank debit card was cancelled because of "suspicious activity" - so our options are dwindling.
At the next toll plaza, he attempted to use the bent card - to no avail. So, held up traffic while looking through wallet for another card. We are not talking insignificant tolls here - on a day of 3-5 hour driving you will spend up to $100 in tolls. The Austrian and Swiss system seems preferable where you buy a "vignette" and have no tolls.
Drove through the vineyards of Languedoc and into the Provence area, past Avignon, and finally arrived at Montpellier. Almost all French restaurants were closed on Monday, but we had found a well-reviewed Chinese restaurant, and planned to go there. But, then I remembered an article I had with me about a winery, and looked it up. For a change, there was a signal so I could reach Google, and found Restaurant Floria at the Chateau Flaugegues, a family winery in an old manor house with lovely gardens.
Another drama ensued. The GPS satellite did not realize there is a newly opened long-distance bypass, and when it directed us to continue straight on, that is where we ended up. I had pointed out the signs toward Montpellier, but Ron said maybe the winery was in the hills east of the city, which seemed logical. Unfortunately, once we passed that exit, the GPS had no idea where we were, and indicated we were basically traveling through fields. I programmed the destination into my phone NAV, which luckily worked, but only momentarily. At a glance it seemed it indicated we had to travel about 27 KM (17 miles) to the next exit. We had planned to be at the restauant early, and have time to browse in the winery. Now, it seemed, we would be LATE. Then the phone went into "recalculating route" mode. Anyway, when we exited the autoroute and paid a 24 Euro toll, I asked Ron if we shoud just forget the lunch stop and go on. He said it would only take us 30-minutes to go back, so we did. But, it raised our blood pressure!
 |
| Floria restored at Chateau Flaugergues |
More tolls going back. The winery/chateau was right in the city, in a rather industrial area. There was a new, modern apartment block behind it, and a cute-looking 3-star hotel, La Grange. Later we learned that the apartments were senior living, and looked very nice.
The winery/restaurant experience wasn't worth the extra hour of travel and tolls. It was pleasant, but didn't live up to expectations raised by the article and reviews. It was too hot to sit outside on the gravel terrace, so sat inside (not air-conditioned, but cooler because of ancient thick walls). Forgot to mention it got up to almost 100-degrees this day. No wonder the credit card melted.
I had a 21-EU 2-course meal. My appetizer was aubergine (eggplant) with "raw" ham, walnuts, and watercress. My main was a crusted fish on a bed of peas and diced vegetables. Don't know what kind of fish, but it had a "meaty" consistency something like swordfish. I prefer flaky like haddock, cod, hake. Ron didn't choose a set menu, and instead got a salad, followed by entecote with pomme frittes.
 |
| Eggplant Appetizer |
 |
| Fish on bed of veggies |
We had a cute little visitor, who was making the rounds. He settled in with us after Ron gave him a tasty morsel of steak.
After lunch we briefly visited the winery, but didn't see any white wines of interest.
We then re-traced our drive along the new bypass (more tolls). We had planned to go to a town a little south of Lyon, but Ron was tired of driving, and we decided to stop in Valence instead.
The internet was working on the phone (for a change) and I looked at hotels. We had stayed here years ago at a hotel with a Michelin-starred restaurant. This was NOT what we wanted this trip - just something convenient, clean, reasonable and comfortable. We have had good luck with The European Best Westerrns, and read reviews for the BW Clos-Syrah, called and reserved a room, which they said was the very last one available.
It was very convenient, just off the autoroute. We were leery when arriving, as the exterior looked atrocious. But, the interior has been renovated, and was very modern and attractive. Our room was on the ground floor. It had been renovated, but there was still scaffolding outside on our terrace where renovations were continuing. Ron drove to a nearby Intermarche to get a bag of ice, some wine, etc. While he was gone, I put on my slippers and soon disovered that the carpets had just been cleaned and were still WET. Both my slippers and socks were soaked.
When Ron got back, he took my slippers and socks to the desk and complained, mentioning that I had almost slipped on the bathroom tile because my feet were wet and I didn't realize it (true). The manager came and apologized, and said we should come to the terrace for a complimentary champagne, and he would also give us complimentary breakfast.
We went to the terrace for dinner, preceded by the champagne. A very lovely setting, at the pool with large trees in the background, and beautiful landscaping, including oleanders and bougainvillea, in the immediate area. Ron commented that at this moment the hotel "has a few rough edges" but when the renovations are complete, it will be a "little Paradise".
The menu was quite expensive and limited. It was a very nice restaurant, not what you would ever find in a US Best Western. There were some wines on the menu for 500 EU! We didn't want a big meal, and asked if they could just give us a charcuterie platter and cheese, which they kindly did. The meal began with a complimentary tapenade, which Ron said was better than the one served at the Michelin-starred restaurant we experienced the last time we were in Valence.
 |
| Olive Tapenade |
 |
| Charcuterie Platter |
Ron wanted this beautiful, red meat slicer. I said that we don't have room in our luggage, and probably don't have room in our new house.
We went to our room, which was small, but totally refurbished, and it was so pleasant to have the terrace by the pool, especially since the temperatures had cooled off nicely. All of the staff we dealt with were friendly and helpful.
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