May 19 - Kelheim

 The breakfast in the hotel was as plentiful as we had remembered. We both had spiegeleier und speck (fried bacon and eggs), and lots of cheeses, breads, fruits from the multi-station buffet. One of the cooks at the egg station was from Portugal and spoke excellent English as well as German.


We inquired at the desk about moving to a room closer to the elevator. The clerk said we should speak to the woman in the Executive Lounge, as there was a possibility for Diamond members. So, we went up there, and that lady was helpful, and said we could have a junior suite (even more of an upgrade) only a few rooms from the lift. We just had to pack up all our bags and leave them for the staff to move later that afternoon.


We set off about 11 AM to drive to Kelheim (not far from Regensburg) to take the ferry to Weltenburg Abbey on the Donau (Danube). Drove north of Munich, past the airport, and through all the fields of hops which makes all that good German beer.  In addition to hops, there were fields of asparagus, and this is the famous "white asparagus time", which heralds the beginning of spring, and finds scrumptious white "spargel" on menus everywhere.


After about 1 1/2 hours we came into Kelheim, and the GPS was leading us astray. We ended up in the old city, which was very attractive. Ron realized the Donau was the other direction, and finally got us to the little pier. He went to buy a parking ticket while I went to buy the boat tickets. The boat didn't depart until 1:15 (instead of 1 PM), so we didn't have to rush.



After boarding the Renate we sat on the first deck, but everyone else was climbing up. Ron went up and said he didn't think it was worth the effort for me, but we did end up going up one steep flight. It was a beautiful trip through the 6-kilometers stretch. We first passed the Befreiungshalle (Liberation Hall), which you can see from anywhere in the town. It stands high on the Michelsberg (Hill). It was built by order of King Ludwig I of Bavaria around 1813 to commemorate the defeat of Napoleon. It is an enormous marble structure, and later read that it is worth a look inside.



 Me wearing Ron's new straw hat




Some of the history was interesting, especially how they were able to transport salt and other provisions to the Abbey with horses pulling barges. Then when there was a rock wall and no tow path, they floated ropes with bales of hay to attach to the barges.  Once the ropes were past the wall they would attach them to iron rings driven onto the stone. The men would then drag the barge against the current of the river up to the next ring finally getting past the gorge and reattaching the horses.  Passing through the gorge (called Donaudurchbruch) was very scenic. This is the narrowest and deepest part of the Danube, which is the second longest river in Europe (after the Volga). We passed a Cloister built into the rocks, and several other sites of interest.


After approximately 45-minutes, we arrived at the dock for Abbey Weltenburg. This is the site of the oldest monastic brewery in the world. The abbey was founded around 600 AD and the brewery in 1050. They produce seven beers. After disembarking we started walking along the path. After awhile, the boat still looked close and the Abbey still seemed far. There didn't seem to be many benches for resting. After discussing, Ron said he didn't think I could make it, but we needed to make a decision quickly or we would miss the departing boat. Reluctantly, we turned back to the boat. Ron had really been looking forward to this visit, so it was a big disappointment.

The trip back was with the current, so only took 25-minutes. Upon docking, we tried to inquire about the little blue tourist train we saw, but the driver was totally unhelpful - zero help, Ron says, and we could not understand his dialect. So, we drove into the Old City, and were surprised we could park. These areas are usually restricted. We kept the car in sight just in case the polizei came around. Sat in a small café, Bistro Royal in Ludwigsplatz. Being as it was white asparagus season, I ordered asparagus toast with ham and Hollandaise sauce. Ron had gulaschsuppe. He said the soup was horrible., like no gulash soup he'd ever tasted in his whole life.  My toast was cold, and cold Hollandaise is NOT a good thing. This is what happens when you don't research.

The town, itself, was attractive. We are surprised that in all the time we lived in Germany we had never visited. We never spent much time around Regensburg or Passau. Is this a reason to come back? I am always looking for an excuse!

Our car on left in front of Rathaus (Town Hall)


White asparagus and ham toast with Hollandaise (COLD)

We headed back to Munich on the suicidal autobahn. Only a few sections were not speed limited, but a lot of people don't obey the limits anyway, despite numerous speed cameras. It started to rain and the wind was ferocious. The temperature dropped down from the 80's to about 52 F.

When we returned to the hotel we were pleasantly surprised with our new room - a spacious junior suite. We have always enjoyed this hotel, but recently had been reading bad reviews, so had been apprehensive. But, we have been pleased with everything. They are beginning a major renovation soon, and we are wondering if they are going to try to change it into something so luxurious that it will not be affordable.







There is a large entry foyer with wardrobes, and bar with tea/coffee making facilities. Very comfortable.

We went to the lounge. The buffet was more extensive than the previous evening with soup, chicken croquettes, salmon, terrine, salad, cheese, fruit, bread and more. Not to mention beer, wine, and limited spirits. No need to go out to dinner!



We were happy to return to our spacious room and call it a night. It was a beautiful day, but a few disappointments, especially the realization of how much physical issues are affecting things we love to do.

Comments