After our complimentary (and typically bad) "English" breakfast, we were picked up by our UBER driver from the previous day - Vadims from Latvia. He has a lovely, clean Mercedes 350, which was easy for me to access - unlike the London-style taxis!
Vadims is not a professional tour guide, but had agreed to drive us around for three hours, covering a list of sights I had prepared and some he felt were important. We first drove down the Royal Mile from the Castle to Holyrood Palace, passing by St. Giles Cathedral, where my grandfather was christened. We passed the Scottish Parliament, a very modern structure. Drove to the top of Arthur's Seat, a 250-meter hill in the Holyrood Park. It is popular with hikers, who climb to the top (about a 45-minute walk according to Vadims). It was a bit hazy so our view over the city wasn't spectacular. We went to the small suburb of Duddingston which lies on the back side of Arthur's Seat. It is a charming little "village" with narrow cobblestone streets and stone cottages. We passed by the Duddingston Loch, a small lake with swans paddling about. Duddingston is the site of Edinburgh's oldest pub - The Sheep's Heid Inn, dating from 1360. It wasn't open yet, so we couldn't sample the food or drink.
We continued on to visit the grounds of the Prestonfield House, considered the most luxurious and exclusive hotel in Edinburgh. It was originally built in 1687 as a manor house, and became a hotel (23 rooms) in the 1960's. It is set in extensive grounds a bit outside the central city. The grounds are beautiful with huge trees and peacocks roaming the lawns. Some of its famous guests include Churchill, Thatcher, Sean Connery, Elton John, etc.
We continued through the Morningside area, considered the most expensive residential area of Edinburgh. We drove through the grounds of the Napier University, one of the UK's largest with around 20,000 students. Interesting modern architecture combined with old, historic buildings.
About noon, it was time for a break - so stopped briefly at Spylaws, a well-known pub in Colinton, a 900-year old "village" within the city of Edinburgh.
Vadims suggested we drive up to the coast and go along the shore of the Firth of Forth to our ultimate destination, Leith. We passed through Granton, and Vadims pointed out some attractive, modern apartments. He said a friend had bought there, and sold after less than a year. The government had required a certain number of units be allocated to people receiving "benefits" (or on the dole as they say in Australia). He said crime, such as vandalism, became common. His friend's windshield was smashed twice. He said drugs were a big problem, and teenagers were causing all kinds of problems. It is funny that the same issues seem to exist everywhere. We had been in a taxi or UBER in Atlanta a year or so ago, and as we went through Atlantic Station (a modern development of condos, apartments, great restaurants, and up-market shops, the driver told us too many "welfare recipients" and too much crime. The problem there was that investors could not find enough tenants and applied for the government program for subsided rents for people on welfare. Thus bringing into the area people who were not committed to growing the neighborhood as a place to have a nice life.
Vadims also pointed out a fish and chip shop owned by a Turkish acquaintance. He said the business was thriving with its take-away business, as he claimed the people on welfare were so lazy they never prepared any meals, but survived on take-out food. Interesting to hear his perspective as an immigrant working hard to make a living.
We arrived in Leith at 1 PM. It has been the port of Edinburgh for hundreds of years. Ten to fifteen years ago it wasn't safe, an area littered with used drug needles. It was the setting for the novel (and subsequent movie) "Trainspotting" dealing with heroin addiction and poverty in a low income area of an affluent city. It has since been undergoing regentrification with many restaurants, shops and pubs, and now there is concern that lower and middle-income people will be priced out.
We decided to try Fishers, a seafood restaurant that has been in business 20-years. It is located partially in a 17h-century watch tower. Ron started with a "vegetable"
soup (basically tomato basil) and I was adventurous and tried a smoked hake carpaccio with horseradish mayo - interesting and tasty. We both had a big bowl of mussels for main course.
No UBER cars were available, so we walked across to Malmaison Hotel & Bistro, and had another beverage while waiting. Ron questioned why anyone would stay at a place called Malmaison (means Bad Home in French). I found out it is part of a "chic" 3-star hotel chain. This location is in an old seaman's mission built in 1883.
Eventually, another UBER driver, Andrew, picked us up and took us back to the Double Tree.
We packed like mad - trying to stuff 9-10 bags of "stuff" into four checked bags and two carry-ons for our flight to Geneva. We were dreading it. After the busy day and flurry of packing, we decided we did not need to make a big night of it. We walked a few blocks to an Indian restaurant the desk clerk recommended, Gucchi. There were few customers, but many folks with huge, insulated carry bags were coming in to pick up delivery orders. We shared garlic naan (which seemed to be dry and lacking garlic) and an ordinary chicken korma.
Walked back to the hotel, and set the alarm for 6 AM. So, there ends the official birthday, but we are continuing to celebrate for another few weeks!
Vadims is not a professional tour guide, but had agreed to drive us around for three hours, covering a list of sights I had prepared and some he felt were important. We first drove down the Royal Mile from the Castle to Holyrood Palace, passing by St. Giles Cathedral, where my grandfather was christened. We passed the Scottish Parliament, a very modern structure. Drove to the top of Arthur's Seat, a 250-meter hill in the Holyrood Park. It is popular with hikers, who climb to the top (about a 45-minute walk according to Vadims). It was a bit hazy so our view over the city wasn't spectacular. We went to the small suburb of Duddingston which lies on the back side of Arthur's Seat. It is a charming little "village" with narrow cobblestone streets and stone cottages. We passed by the Duddingston Loch, a small lake with swans paddling about. Duddingston is the site of Edinburgh's oldest pub - The Sheep's Heid Inn, dating from 1360. It wasn't open yet, so we couldn't sample the food or drink.
 |
| Sheep's Heid Inn - Duddingston |
We continued on to visit the grounds of the Prestonfield House, considered the most luxurious and exclusive hotel in Edinburgh. It was originally built in 1687 as a manor house, and became a hotel (23 rooms) in the 1960's. It is set in extensive grounds a bit outside the central city. The grounds are beautiful with huge trees and peacocks roaming the lawns. Some of its famous guests include Churchill, Thatcher, Sean Connery, Elton John, etc.
 |
| Prestonfield House |
We continued through the Morningside area, considered the most expensive residential area of Edinburgh. We drove through the grounds of the Napier University, one of the UK's largest with around 20,000 students. Interesting modern architecture combined with old, historic buildings.
About noon, it was time for a break - so stopped briefly at Spylaws, a well-known pub in Colinton, a 900-year old "village" within the city of Edinburgh.
Vadims suggested we drive up to the coast and go along the shore of the Firth of Forth to our ultimate destination, Leith. We passed through Granton, and Vadims pointed out some attractive, modern apartments. He said a friend had bought there, and sold after less than a year. The government had required a certain number of units be allocated to people receiving "benefits" (or on the dole as they say in Australia). He said crime, such as vandalism, became common. His friend's windshield was smashed twice. He said drugs were a big problem, and teenagers were causing all kinds of problems. It is funny that the same issues seem to exist everywhere. We had been in a taxi or UBER in Atlanta a year or so ago, and as we went through Atlantic Station (a modern development of condos, apartments, great restaurants, and up-market shops, the driver told us too many "welfare recipients" and too much crime. The problem there was that investors could not find enough tenants and applied for the government program for subsided rents for people on welfare. Thus bringing into the area people who were not committed to growing the neighborhood as a place to have a nice life.
Vadims also pointed out a fish and chip shop owned by a Turkish acquaintance. He said the business was thriving with its take-away business, as he claimed the people on welfare were so lazy they never prepared any meals, but survived on take-out food. Interesting to hear his perspective as an immigrant working hard to make a living.
We arrived in Leith at 1 PM. It has been the port of Edinburgh for hundreds of years. Ten to fifteen years ago it wasn't safe, an area littered with used drug needles. It was the setting for the novel (and subsequent movie) "Trainspotting" dealing with heroin addiction and poverty in a low income area of an affluent city. It has since been undergoing regentrification with many restaurants, shops and pubs, and now there is concern that lower and middle-income people will be priced out.
We decided to try Fishers, a seafood restaurant that has been in business 20-years. It is located partially in a 17h-century watch tower. Ron started with a "vegetable"
 |
| Fishers |
 |
| Hake Carpaccio with Beet Root |
 |
| Lots of Mussels! |
No UBER cars were available, so we walked across to Malmaison Hotel & Bistro, and had another beverage while waiting. Ron questioned why anyone would stay at a place called Malmaison (means Bad Home in French). I found out it is part of a "chic" 3-star hotel chain. This location is in an old seaman's mission built in 1883.
 |
| Bistro area of Malmaison |
Eventually, another UBER driver, Andrew, picked us up and took us back to the Double Tree.
We packed like mad - trying to stuff 9-10 bags of "stuff" into four checked bags and two carry-ons for our flight to Geneva. We were dreading it. After the busy day and flurry of packing, we decided we did not need to make a big night of it. We walked a few blocks to an Indian restaurant the desk clerk recommended, Gucchi. There were few customers, but many folks with huge, insulated carry bags were coming in to pick up delivery orders. We shared garlic naan (which seemed to be dry and lacking garlic) and an ordinary chicken korma.
Walked back to the hotel, and set the alarm for 6 AM. So, there ends the official birthday, but we are continuing to celebrate for another few weeks!
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