May 29 - Lunch at Carate Urio on the Lake

We left the apartment about 11 AM to drive to Moltrasio, as I had researched a restaurant with lake-view terrace and, most importantly, a parking garage. Parking is an enormous problem here.

I sat in the back with Val, as I said I really didn't want to see the scary, narrow roads. Val couldn't believe that two-way traffic was actually operating on these tiny streets. We had a couple "close encounters", as buses and huge trucks don't seem to slow down even when coming around sharp, blind curves. Val said, "They use no caution!" Ron managed to avoid all obstacles - stone walls, bicycles, vehicles, with one slight exception. The passenger-side mirror clipped a parked motorcycle, as Ron had to edge over a tad further because a truck couldn't squeeze past. Tom was taking a video out the windshield, and caught my scream on tape when we rounded a bend and a large truck was coming at us. Val said, how does Ron stay so calm.

When we arrived in Moltrasio, there was no parking outside, and we couldn't see how to gain access to the parking garage at the Hotel Posto. Ron had to turn around and since he did, I said maybe we should go back to he beautiful lakeside café (Aqua Dolce) we had passed a mile back in Carate Urio. Turning around in the narrow streets with few side turns is difficult, so once you are headed in one direction it is best to "go with the flow". We found the restaurant and even a parking space, but the restaurant was closed on Mondays. Across the street was the Millesimo Enoteca (Wine Bar), which I had read good things about. It only served snacks and didn't have a view, but upstairs was a "pizzeria". I was hoping for something much nicer than a pizzeria after driving all that way and passing by dozens of cafes. BUT, the fact that we had a parking spot was paramount! So, we climbed the stone stairs, and had the restaurant (Il Filo d'Olio) to ourselves. At least it had a superb view of the lake. Then the waiter told us "the pizza oven" is closed in the afternoon, and handed us menus that piqued my interest. Thank Heavens, more than a pizzeria! Noticed that there was a "coperto" (cover charge or "gedeck" in German") of EU2.50 per person. That practice has pretty much faded away in Germany, but still seems common in touristic areas of Italy.

It turned out to be a nice meal. Ron and Tom started with a Caprese salad, and I had mussels for appetizer. Then Ron had a seafood salad with lots of fresh little sea creatures, Tom had spaghetti with clams, and Val had rigatoni with tomato, eggplant and basil. I had a dish that is on many menus here - risotto with lake perch. It was delicious.

View from Il Filo D'Olio

With waiter

Caprese salad - mozzarella and tomato

Mussels

Ron's seafood "mélange"

Tom's spaghetti and clams

Rissotto with lake perch

I was really hoping we could take a car ferry back, but that didn't work out. I hate how scary the roads are. Tom said we needed to find some medical Marijuana or Ecstasy to calm me down.

We went past Menaggio to go to Carrefour (super market) we had seen coming from Lugano. It was a lot further than any of us remembered in the town of Carlazzo . One of the things we bought there was a floor fan, which has proved very helpful to our sleep. However, we are wondering how we will ever fit it in the car with all the luggage when we leave here.

Came back to the apartment. Tom helped guide Ron into the gate and the parking space.

Later we wanted to go into town. No problem for Tom and Val to walk. I wanted a taxi, and asked the landlady to call. She tried, but no one would come up, so she volunteered to drive us down. We met Tom and Val at the Café del Pess, and sat outside on the lake for a snack. Ron and I shared a ham/cheese sandwich on some strange baguette which Ron says was toasted beyond edibility. Ron had a very colorful and refreshing Campari with orange juice.

Ron's Campari Orange

Crispy rings with consistency of Cheetohs

Inedible ham and cheese baguette

Tom's burger

Val with refreshing drink

Tom and waitress

Tom and Val walked back up. We took a taxi! When we approached the taxi Ron started to give him the address and the driver said he knew and repeated the address to him. Small town Italy! Not sure how he knew we were staying there but he did. He drove past the terrible opening to the drive and made a U-turn in the curve which caused me to gasp a little too loudly. He then stopped in the middle of the street to let us out at the opening to the steep drive.

So ended a long but lovely day (despite the horrible roads).